Babylon Revisited
“And where's Mr. Campbell?” Charlie asked. “Gone to Switzerland. Mr. Campbell’s a pretty sick man, Mr. Wales.” “I’m sorry to hear that. And George Hardt?” Charlie inquired. “Back in America, gone to work.” 5 “And where is the Snow Bird?” “He was in here last week. Anyway, his friend, Mr. Schaeffer, is in Paris.” Two familiar names from the long list of a year and a half ago. Charlie scribbled an address in his notebook and tore out the page. “If you see Mr. Schaeffer, give him this,” he said. “It’s my brother-in-law’s address. I haven’t settled on a hotel yet.” He was not really disappointed to find Paris was so empty. But the stillness in the Ritz[2] bar was strange and portentous. It was not an American bar any more—he felt polite in it, and not as if he owned it. It had gone back into France. He felt the stillness from the moment he got out of the taxi and saw the doorman, usually in a frenzy of activity at this hour, gossiping with a chasseur by the servants’ entrance. 10 Passing through the corridor, he heard only a single, bored voice in the once-clamorous women’s room. When he turned into the bar he travelled the twenty feet of green carpet with his eyes fixed straight ahead by old habit; and then, with his foot firmly on the rail, he turned and surveyed the room, encountering only a single pair of eyes that fluttered up from a newspaper in the corner. Charlie asked for the head barman, Paul, who in the latter days of the bull market had come to work in his own custom-built car—disembarking, however, with due nicety at the nearest corner. But Paul was at his country house today and Alix giving him information. “No, no more,” Charlie said, “I’m going slow these days.” Alix congratulated him: “You were going pretty strong a couple of years ago.” “I’ll stick to it all right,” Charlie assured him. “I’ve stuck to it for over a year and a half now.” “How do you find conditions in America?” 15 “I haven’t been to America for months. I’m in business in Prague, representing a couple of concerns there. They don’t know about me down there.” Alix smiled. “Remember the night of George Hardt’s bachelor dinner here?” said Charlie. “By the way, what’s become of Claude Fessenden?” Alix lowered his voice confidentially: “He’s in Paris, but he doesn’t come here any more. Paul doesn’t allow it. He ran up a bill of thirty thousand francs,[3] charging all his drinks and his lunches, and usually his dinner, for more than a year. And when Paul finally told him he had to pay, he gave him a bad check.” Alix shook his head sadly. 20 “I don’t understand it, such a dandy fellow. Now he’s all bloated up—” He made a plump apple of his hands. Charlie watched a group of strident queens installing themselves in a corner. “Nothing affects them,” he thought. “Stocks rise and fall, people loaf or work, but they go on forever.” The place oppressed him. He called for the dice and shook with Alix for the drink.[4] “Here for long, Mr. Wales?” “I’m here for four or five days to see my little girl.” 25 “Oh-h! You have a little girl?” Outside, the fire-red, gas-blue, ghost-green signs shone smokily through the tranquil rain. It was late afternoon and the streets were in movement; the bistros gleamed. At the corner of the Boulevard des Capucines[5] he took a taxi. The Place de la Concorde[6] moved by in pink majesty; they crossed the logical Seine, and Charlie felt the sudden provincial quality of the Left Bank.[7] Charlie directed his taxi to the Avenue de l'Opera,[8] which was out of his way. But he wanted to see the blue hour spread over the magnificent façade, and imagine that the cab horns, playing endlessly the first few bars of La Plus que Lent,[9] were the trumpets of the Second Empire.[10] They were closing the iron grill in front of Brentano’s Book-store,[11] and people were already at dinner behind the trim little bourgeois hedge of Duval’s.[12] He had never eaten at a really cheap restaurant in Paris. Five-course dinner, four francs fifty, eighteen cents, wine included. For some odd reason he wished that he had. As they rolled on to the Left Bank and he felt its sudden provincialism, he thought, “I spoiled this city for myself. I didn’t realize it, but the days came along one after another, and then two years were gone, and everything was gone, and I was gone.” He was thirty-five, and good to look at. The Irish mobility of his face was sobered by a deep wrinkle between his eyes. As he rang his brother-in-law’s bell in the Rue Palatine,[13] the wrinkle deepened till it pulled down his brows; he felt a cramping sensation in his belly. From behind the maid who opened the door darted a lovely little girl of nine who shrieked “Daddy!” and flew up, struggling like a fish, into his arms. She pulled his head around by one ear and set her cheek against his. 30 “My old pie,” he said. “Oh, daddy, daddy, daddy, daddy, dads, dads, dads!” She drew him into the salon, where the family waited, a boy and girl his daughter’s age, his sister-in-law and her husband. He greeted Marion with his voice pitched carefully to avoid either feigned enthusiasm or dislike, but her response was more frankly tepid, though she minimized her expression of unalterable distrust by directing her regard toward his child. The two men clasped hands in a friendly way and Lincoln Peters rested his for a moment on Charlie’s shoulder. The room was warm and comfortably American. The three children moved intimately about, playing through the yellow oblongs that led to other rooms; the cheer of six o’clock spoke in the eager smacks of the fire and the sounds of French activity in the kitchen. But Charlie did not relax; his heart sat up rigidly in his body and he drew confidence from his daughter, who from time to time came close to him, holding in her arms the doll he had brought. “Really extremely well,” he declared in answer to Lincoln’s question. “There’s a lot of business there that isn’t moving at all, but we're doing even better than ever. In fact, damn well. I’m bringing my sister over from America next month to keep house for me. My income last year was bigger than it was when I had money. You see, the Czechs——” 35 His boasting was for a specific purpose; but after a moment, seeing a faint restiveness in Lincoln’s eye, he changed the subject: “Those are fine children of yours, well brought up, good manners.” “We think Honoria’s a great little girl too.” Marion Peters came back from the kitchen. She was a tall woman with worried eyes, who had once possessed a fresh American loveliness. Charlie had never been sensitive to it and was always surprised when people spoke of how pretty she had been. From the first there had been an instinctive antipathy between them. “Well, how do you find Honoria?” she asked. 40 “Wonderful. I was astonished how much she’s grown in ten months. All the children are looking well.” “We haven’t had a doctor for a year. How do you like being back in Paris?” “It seems very funny to see so few Americans around.” “I’m delighted,” Marion said vehemently. “Now at least you can go into a store without their assuming you’re a millionaire. We’ve suffered like everybody, but on the whole it’s a good deal pleasanter.” “But it was nice while it lasted,” Charlie said. “We were a sort of royalty, almost infallible, with a sort of magic around us. In the bar this afternoon”—he stumbled, seeing his mistake—“there wasn’t a man I knew.” 45 She looked at him keenly. “I should think you’d have had enough of bars.” “I only stayed a minute. I take one drink every afternoon, and no more.” “Don’t you want a cocktail before dinner?” Lincoln asked. “I take only one drink every afternoon, and I’ve had that.” “I hope you keep to it,” said Marion. 50 Her dislike was evident in the coldness with which she spoke, but Charlie only smiled; he had larger plans. Her very aggressiveness gave him an advantage, and he knew enough to wait. He wanted them to initiate the discussion of what they knew had brought him to Paris. At dinner he couldn’t decide whether Honoria was most like him or her mother. Fortunate if she didn’t combine the traits of both that had brought them to disaster. A great wave of protectiveness went over him. He thought he knew what to do for her. He believed in character; he wanted to jump back a whole generation and trust in character again as the eternally valuable element. Everything wore out. He left soon after dinner, but not to go home. He was curious to see Paris by night with clearer and more judicious eyes than those of other days. He bought a strapontin[14] for the Casino and watched Josephine Baker[15] go through her chocolate arabesques. After an hour he left and strolled toward Montmartre,[16] up the Rue Pigalle into the Place Blanche. The rain had stopped and there were a few people in evening clothes disembarking from taxis in front of cabarets, and cocottes[17] prowling singly or in pairs, and many Negroes. He passed a lighted door from which issued music, and stopped with the sense of familiarity; it was Bricktop’s,[18] where he had parted with so many hours and so much money. A few doors farther on he found another ancient rendezvous and incautiously put his head inside. Immediately an eager orchestra burst into sound, a pair of professional dancers leaped to their feet and a maître d’hôtel swooped toward him, crying, “Crowd just arriving, sir!” But he withdrew quickly. "You have to be damn drunk," he thought. 55 Zelli’s[19] was closed, the bleak and sinister cheap hotels surrounding it were dark; up in the Rue Blanche there was more light and a local, colloquial French crowd. The Poet’s Cave had disappeared, but the two great mouths of the Café of Heaven and the Café of Hell still yawned—even devoured, as he watched, the meager contents of a tourist bus—a German, a Japanese, and an American couple who glanced at him with frightened eyes. So much for the effort and ingenuity of Montmartre. All the catering to vice and waste was on an utterly childish scale, and he suddenly realized the meaning of the word “dissipate”—to dissipate into thin air; to make nothing out of something. In the little hours of the night every move from place to place was an enormous human jump, an increase of paying for the privilege of slower and slower motion. He remembered thousand-franc notes given to an orchestra for playing a single number, hundred-franc notes tossed to a doorman for calling a cab. But it hadn't been given for nothing. It had been given, even the most wildly squandered sum, as an offering to destiny that he might not remember the things most worth remembering, the things that now he would always remember—his child taken from his control, his wife escaped to a grave in Vermont. 60 In the glare of a brasserie a woman spoke to him. He bought her some eggs and coffee, and then, eluding her encouraging stare, gave her a twenty-franc note and took a taxi to his hotel.
II
He woke upon a fine fall day—football weather. The depression of yesterday was gone and he liked the people on the streets. At noon he sat opposite Honoria at Le Grand Vatel,[20] the only restaurant he could think of not reminiscent of champagne dinners and long luncheons that began at two and ended in a blurred and vague twilight. . . . |
notes
- ↑ Originally published in the Saturday Evening Post (21 February 1931).
- ↑ Founded in 1898, the Ritz Paris is a hotel in central Paris, overlooking the Place Vendôme in the city’s 1st arrondissement. The Ritz Paris is ranked among the most luxurious hotels in the world.
- ↑ This is a huge sum for the 1920s, equivalent to about $500,000 in 2020.
- ↑ Bar dice is a drinking game that uses five dice and a cup. The player with the lowest number pays for the next round of drinks.
- ↑ The Boulevard des Capucines is one of the “Grands Boulevards” in Paris. The name comes from a convent of Capuchin nuns whose garden was on the south side of the boulevard prior to the French Revolution.
- ↑ The Place de la Concorde is one of the major public squares in Paris; measuring 19 acres, it is the largest square in the French capital. It is located in the city’s eighth arrondissement, at the eastern end of the Champs-Élysées. It was the site of many notable public executions, including those of King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette during the French Revolution, earning the square the nickname Place de la Révolution.
- ↑ The Rive Gauche, or Left Bank, is the southern bank of the river Seine in Paris. Here the river flows roughly westward, cutting the city in two parts. The Left Bank is associated with artists, writers, and philosophers, including Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, James Baldwin, and dozens of other members of the great artistic community at Montparnasse. The phrase implies a sense of bohemianism, counterculture, and creativity.
- ↑ The Avenue de l'Opéra was created from 1864 to 1879 and is situated in the center of the city, running northwest from the Louvre to the Palais Garnier, the primary opera house of Paris.
- ↑ “La plus que lente,” literally “more than slow,” is a waltz for solo piano written by Claude Debussy in 1910.
- ↑ The Second French Empire was the 18-year regime of Napoleon III from 1852 to 1870.
- ↑ Brentano’s was an American bookstore chain with numerous locations in the United States and abroad, including Paris and London.
- ↑ Founded in 1854 by Pierre Louis Duval, the restaurant was popular in the 1920s and was known for its broths or “Bouillons Duval.”
- ↑ In the 6th arrondissement of Paris. This central arrondissement, which includes the historic districts of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, has played a major role throughout Parisian history and is well known for its café culture and the revolutionary intellectualism.
- ↑ A portable folding seat.
- ↑ Josephine Baker (1906–1975) was an American-born French dancer, singer, and actress. Her career was centered primarily in Europe, mostly in her adopted France. During her early career, Baker was among the most celebrated performers to headline the revues in Paris. Her costume, consisting of only a short skirt of artificial bananas and a beaded necklace, became an iconic image and a symbol both of the Jazz Age and the Roaring Twenties.
- ↑ Montmartre is a large hill in Paris’ northern 18th arrondissement. It is 430 ft high and gives its name to the surrounding district, part of the Right Bank. Montmartre is primarily known for its artistic history, for the white-domed Basilica of the Sacré-Cœur on its summit, and as a nightclub district.
- ↑ High class prostitutes or courtesans.
- ↑ On Place Pigalle, Bricktop’s was a combination nightclub, mail drop, bank and neighborhood bar for the most elegant people in Paris in the 1920s.
- ↑ Owned by Joe Zelli, Zelli’s Club was the most famous of the nightclubs in Paris. Opened in 1922, Zelli’s was always crowded and a membership card was needed to enter an underground dance hall.
- ↑ In Paris’ 1st arrondissement.